Things I learned on my road trip in just four days in India....

Ahhhh. Now I'm in the airport. A place I have become very familiar with, as this is literally my 6th time in the Indira Gandhi international airport. Every flight in and out has been in the ginormous "Terminal 3"...I'm not sure what's goin on in the other two terminals but I know every coffee shop ..uhhh....forget that....chai tea shop...toilet and Indian fast food joint in this place. I always go by the "bazaar" and spray myself with whatever yummy stuff that smells like sandalwood...that's right, so I won't smell like pee. Oh..sorry that story comes later apparently.  

Speaking of smells, there is some kind of strange phenomenon going on here that makes all deodorant instantly stop working. Maybe it can only handle so much sweat...I don't know but let me tell you, I've got issues. 

And why is it that in all 184 of the bathrooms in this place (and other places such as nicer restaurants and so forth) there is always someone in there....waiting for you?  They pump soap (if your lucky) and turn on the faucet, occasionally hand you paper towels...if your in a fancy one such as the IGI airport. (But not the Kathmandu airport.  That one is absolutely nasty.)  Now I am the first to admit that I can use all the help I can get, but the bathroom is one place I believe I know my way around....(ok, we'll sort of...ugh). There is a whole work force out there training to be bathroom technicians. Seriously. If you can work your way around a faucet (which let me tell you...sometimes it's trickier than you would think possible) and a paper towel dispenser...there is a job waiting for you here in India. Just sayin'. 

Despite my effort to eat by my intuition I am beginning to rethink this whole gluten-free business, ...omg. I LOVE garlic naan. Holy moly. I don't even want to know what's in it or how much of what kind of oil is used to make it. I want it. My belly often...ok...Always..argues but....but...but...   I. Want. It.

Yes...! the whole freakin' basket they bring you. 

I am thinking of starting a movement. It's called "free-gluten"! ...But just for garlic naan. Ok, it's a small, temporary movement...alright, maybe I have an addiction. Help. 

"Plain vegetables" means covered in lots of spicy sauce. Always.

 I know, I've tried, but ok, just give it to me...whatever. 

It still tastes awesome. How could it not? I'm in freakin' India. These people know how to cook some spicy food. Who am I to argue?

Did you know that...Two lanes can also be five? Huh. Who knew. 

Fortunately, rarely do roads have "lanes" which means its just a good ol' fashion free-for-all. If you can squeeze your ass in that space, you're good. 

Oh yeah, honk a lot first so every body knows your pushing them out of the way...then pull up in there...go on...now don't dilly dally...

...and then maybe honk some more just for good measure...

All cars in India are white. Ok, they all used to be white. There must have been a clearance sale.  

On the other hand, there are a lot of gigantic trucks, which oddly are very colorful. Usually due to some enthusiastic young lad with cans of spray paint I imagine, but very colorful nonetheless. Even the big trucks have colorful scarves flowing off the back of their necks. I love it!

Still learning the art of Indian toilets. Often here, places will boast about having "luxurious western toilets". Western toilets are not always a luxury as you have to sit on them. Naked. Trust me. This is rarely a good thing.  Indian "toilets" are holes in the ground with bumpy places to put your feet next to the hole.  I have yet to figure out how to do this without peeing on my shoes. I'm like, ten for ten. This is a rather unfortunate situation as I wear sandals...'cause its like 35 degrees.... In fahrenheit that's like 150 or something. And I have pee on my feet. Always. Yep. I stink. That's okay, I am not a minority. At least in that regard. 

Speaking of minority, I get a lot of looks. Fortunately, I get a lot of smiles....as well as my fair share of wide eyed blank stares.  Yes, it's true, omg...I'm white, blond, and I talk funny. By some of the reactions, I must be a very small minority here these days.  In fact, people are constantly staring at me. It's funny how easily you get used to it though. I just smile as big as I can. That's right people... I'm tall and I'm weird. Just stay back. 

I'm thinking of going out in clown paint. Just as an experiment. I'll let you know how that one goes. 

For now?  I'm headed south people. There is just not enough fruit in the north. That's right I'm after fruit... and not just hard little apples and warm mushy bananas.  Somebody show me to the place with the coconuts...

I am so happy and grateful I eat and crave foods that nourish me deeply and wholly. 

There. That should take care of this whole "gluten" issue. 

The Golden Triangle. Kinda like the Bermuda Triangle...but weirder.

Consider yourself warned...this one's a doozie....proceed with caution. 

I just returned from what can only be described as a two week excursion crammed into three days. Well, three days of...omg... I just spent three quarters each of the day light hours of three full days "driving" (or shall I say being present inside an automobile) ...attempting the "Golden Triangle" experience. Who planned this ridiculous trip? Uhhh...that would be me. 

1,000 km doesn't sound like an epic journey anywhere...does it?...(maniacal laughter ensues)...

First of all, I can safely say now, I am happy I had this experience. I got to visit the freakin' Taj Mahal. How cool is that kids!?! Secondly, I'm happy it's over. 

The "Golden Triangle" is a triangle on the map connecting New Delhi, Agra (the Taj Mahal), and Jaipur. Of course "connecting" has an interesting new connotation for me now.  

 I had three days before I flew to Goa and the only thing I knew was 1) Three days was way too long to spend in New Delhi and 2) I was way too close to one of the 7 wonders of the world not to make the effort to get there. 

The odyssey began late one night (...wow..that was only three nights ago....anyway...I digress). I had flown in from Kathmandu and arrived fairly late in the evening. 

I was on a mission -that night- to hire a driver to take me on this {preposterous} journey. I didn't shop around, I didn't interview people, I trusted in the Universe to guide me.... And, oh did it. Success! I found the sweetest, most polite and courteous driver in this crazy place to fulfill my request. He treated me like a queen.  Early the next morning we headed for Agra...the city known only for housing the one and only, Taj Mahal. 

Having only had a couple of taxi rides in Delhi from the airport to various hotels (I have been flying in and out of Delhi now for over two months so I FELT  like I was familiar with India at this point, but alas I realized soon after we departed on this journey I didn't know squat.) Getting there was more than half of it. It felt at times like getting there wasn't even guaranteed. When we did actually arrive in Agra (late that afternoon and on a Friday...the only day it is closed) I was not only relieved, but exhausted, frazzled, and wondering what exactly was I trying to accomplish here...all in the name of....fun??? 

Ha. Take that! I'm still here. 

Lets start with the "department of transportation".   This would include the concept of road maintenance. Which I am afraid would be, well... none. What the hell,  people?  The term frequent "Land mine" potholes come to mind....on the highway...where people drive.."things" fast.  Yeah...dodge these while trying to figure out which of the speeding truck-angry taxi-bicycle-rickshaw-tractor-camel driver-motorcycles is honking at you and apparently, they all want to be exactly where YOU are. Fancy that.  And then there is the case of the rest of the "department of transportation" experiences you will encounter along the way, such as..."Diversions". This is the sign you will see regularly and this means "get ready to shift".  Sounds easy enough, right? 

All I can say is I have never had so much time to practice my calming, meditative pranayamas (breathing exercises) before. I'm really good at them now and don't even have to think about it...they come as naturally as...huh...breathing. 

Where was I? Oh yeah...the Taj Mahal. Yeah yeah yeah... Big freakin' marble building....

I got to witness this "bigger than you can ever imagine marble structure" at dawn. The sun's first light shining upon this translucent marble surface is like nothing I have ever seen. I was fortunate to be accompanied by a lovely and knowledgable young Agra native that shared the less than wonderful story behind this monstrous building project. 

You know the tale..."love story meets epic ego-ridden rich guy saga" and basically 20,000 craftsmen that carved this giant mother-scratcher by hand got their fingers and hands cut off so there would never be anything like it ...ever ...on the planet again. The dude was so crazy he wanted to build another one and the guys own son locked him away for life. Uh. Huh.

Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled to have witnessed this piece of art. It truly is amazing...the detailed carving of what is said to be the hardest marble on earth, is astounding. The inlaid stonework with onyx, carnelian, and other gems...it truly is a sight to be held.  My gratitude goes to all the artisans involved with this grandiose project. They did a bang up job. 

Next on the itinerary was Jaipur. I'll be completely honest. I have no idea why I asked to be delivered to this "other" crazy city...I knew absolutely nothing about it...until I arrived at the "astronomical playground" as I would later affectionately call it. It's real name is "Jantar Mantar". It's a world heritage site and was built fairly recently (in terms of history in India..) about 287 years ago. It is a park- like courtyard just outside the palace and it contains all sorts of giant sundials,  zodiac alignment tools, "Chakra Yantras", and various Solstice/Equinox calculating devices... It was truly like a mystical playground. Yum! 

The palace inside the "pink city" was lovely...as well as the museums, the "Jah Mahal"....the water palace- in the middle of a lake -which really isn't a palace but a big fancy palace-looking structure where they would hunt tigers...boooo :-( on the surrounding mountainsides, the "mirror temple"...which is exactly that...a temple made of tiny cut pieces of mirror, which is just trippy I gotta say... Whew. It was quite the experience. And then...back to Delhi. 

My kind driver, who I affectionately called "friend", and who would continually call me "ma'am" absolutely cracked me up. ....So, he gets in the car and looks at me, smiles, and says "English, no", "Hindi, yes"...which would be a perfectly reasonable thing to establish if this had been within, oh...I don't know...say an hour within meeting each other. But this fun little conversation was happening on the SECOND day after having had many conversations with him speaking Hindi to me, and me responding in English, telling him....again... I didn't understand. We would both giggle and then continue to be quiet for several hours. Then the process would begin again. The only words we mutually understood, (clearly NOT being each others' names as these were never truly understood by either of us) were the words "lunch", "water", and "toilet" as these were the only words that matter when you spend what seems like an eternity with someone in a car on a road trip. For three days. Think about it. 

It's like being alone. But watched. As he too was an Indian fascinated by this freaky white girl wanting to be driven all over India in what was (obviously) too little time. I don't think either of us knew exactly what we were getting ourselves in to. Ha. 

I think my "friend" could tell I was a little anxious about the every day normal goings-on of the highways in India...to put it mildly. What he didn't realize was half the anxiety was from him. The more anxious I looked, the weirder he drove. Do you know what's worse than an aggressive driver in India? A timid one. You know the type...you're on the interstate and the merging vehicle instead of speeding up to "go with the flow" slows down and brakes...pissing off everyone around you. Yep. That's right ladies and gentlemen. Welcome to my world. 

Combine that with one weary [no I'm not a control freak] lady, who was originally asked to sit in the backseat, but insisted she sit in the front seat [no I'm not a control freak]...I never imagined in a million years there would come a time where I would think to myself while riding in a car (repeatedly...ok...almost continuously at times) in a place such as this, "I wish he would just let me drive". [No I'm not a control freak!]. Seriously. If you could have heard the conversation going on in my head.... 

I don't know if he was being so timid because he thought I was nervous and going slowly and so passively would ease my mind, or if he drove that way all the time but....I gave myself a stiff neck by literally forcing myself to look out the side window so I wouldn't "backseat drive in my own head". I hope he didn't see me pushing my imaginary gas pedal down to the ground. 

Road tripping in India...all I can say is ...don't forget your valium.  I think next time I'll take the train.  No offense, my friend.

Thank you for a truly wild adventure (did I mention almost getting run over by elephants!!?!) and especially for returning me safe and sound.

Thank you for helping me learn to TRUST IN THE UNIVERSE especially by letting go of things totally out of my control. 

Thank you for showing me your kind, beautiful heart. This sweet man volunteered to come pick me up at the crack of dawn tomorrow and take me to the airport. 

Thank you.

I am so happy and grateful I trust in the universe!

More fun things about Nepal...

As far as I can tell, nearly every door that locks, in every hotel, has a giant skeleton key. That's right. I said skeleton key.  I didn't know those things still existed...until now. And, what's even more fun, is that they all come with a huge metal plate inscribed with the name of wherever you are. Try carrying THAT get-up around in your bra all day. (Of course you men don't know what I'm talking about...your clothes all have pockets.)

My current skeleton key and its unnecessarily ginormous brass plate is inscribed with the words "Jesus Block". I asked if I was put in this room because I was from America. She laughed and said, no,  that's just a bonus.  Who knew you had to come this far to find Jesus. 

Every time someone asks where I'm from and I say, "The United States", the immediate response is, "Oh, are you from California?"  And then I was told that they should know better than to ask that because when people from California are asked where they are from, they say "California". No one, and I do mean no one, knows where Georgia is.  

That's okay...I didn't know much about Nepal either....

It's a jungle out there. Literally. Somehow that's not how I pictured Nepal. I ignorantly thought I would be in a barren cold valley surrounded by Everest-like snow covered mountains. It's lush and tropical even....(with lots of monkeys!) seemingly fruitless, but tropical feeling nonetheless. Huh. Go figure. The big snow covered mountains are lovely too, although you rarely catch s glimpse of them during monsoon season.

Now here's something important to discuss...

There's a whole lot of spitting that goes on around here. Seriously. I have no idea. Maybe it's the air quality in the city. I have theories. And not just light little spittle spitting either...the full on, gather everything from the gut up to the nasal passages kind of spitting. I cannot tell you how many times I have actually been awakened in the morning by this disgusting sound. Really people, must you do that outside my open window? At 5:30am? Do some pranayamas for heavens sake. 

 

Bathrooms. Now I know I was mystified in (several) other countries, but the bathrooms in Nepal take the cake. There are so many spigots (literally, not including the sink, I have three in the bathroom where I am now...you know... Jesus's place). There are always buckets, big bins, and other accoutrements that make me think there is something way more complicated that is supposed to be going on in here. I never knew washing myself could be so confusing. 

Am I doing it wrong by picking one faucet, turning it on and standing (more of a crouching really) underneath it??? 

And what's wrong with shower curtains? Or heaven forbid a shower stall? Why must the entire room become your shower? I cannot think of any reason why this is a good thing except when your are cleaning the bathroom. Because the whole thing gets wet. And with 653% humidity it never dries. Ever.

 Maybe that's why there is always a pair of flip flops in every bathroom. 

Speaking of bathrooms...the bum guns are back!  Yay! It must be an Asian thing in general. And thank gawwd because the toilet paper here....well let's just say that perforated tissue is a good thing. I don't know who invented perforated toilet tissue but their idea didn't take off here. I don't know why. Without it you end up with...well, it's not pretty. 

Yes, bathrooms shall forever remain a mystery in more ways than one. 

Tired of discussing bathrooms? Ok, how about food? My other favorite subject...

White rice. It grows here, ya know. It's really beautiful to see actually...terraces of this emerald green grass up and down the mountainsides. 

All I know is there MUST be some kind of secret nutritional value in white rice because every human (sage and fool alike) on this continent eats a shit-ton of it.  At every meal. Every day. Morning, noon, and night...forever. And likes it. 

It's growing on me. 

Ooowheeee Nepali's like their spice!! I have developed a new taste bud in my mouth. It's called FIRE. And you have to live here a while to develop it. And you douse the FIRE with...you guessed it. White rice. 

Oh yeah, and tea! It's lovely. I know the English (and yes of course many others) have been doing this afternoon tea thing for quite some time, but I'm beginning to like it. Tea anyone?

Well, now that I have discovered some of the important mysteries of Nepal, it is time to move on. India, here I come....

My experiences in Nepal (food, bathrooms, and customary bodily functions aside) have been amazing.... The flora and fauna, the majestic mountains, the mystical and spiritual energy of this sacred land have all captivated me. Of course it is the people that make up a land... The people of Nepal are truly special. They are kind and loving and so many have touched my heart. Thank you beautiful Nepal for a magical adventure I shall not soon forget. 

I am so happy and grateful I am open to new adventures in life...

The 11 days that changed my life...

Its true! I joined a commune and found Jesus! 

Of course it was the name of the building I was staying in, but I found him alright. Ok, so I was only in the commune for eleven days, but I lived a lifetime there. Really. I have had the pleasure of stumbling across an Osho meditation center in this sacred land they call Nepal. 

12 days ago I would have told you that I had been meditating for years and knew what I was doing. Now, I realize I didn't know shite from shinola and meditation is so much more than I ever thought. And...at times more difficult for hours on end than I ever though possible as well. 

When I would hear people say "Meditation is the answer to everything" I honestly didn't really understand what that meant. I certainly don't have it all figured out, but after the first week of vipassana (silent meditation), I began to have a clarity that I have never felt before. I understand how mediation effects EVERY aspect of life...physically, spiritually, emotionally...in every plane and dimension. For me, it has especially helped center and ground...helped me stay in the present moment, come back to the present moment more quickly when I have wandered off, and more frequently. 

My creativity has skyrocketed...  I wrote so many pages in my journal about new ideas, thoughts, and perspectives...I see the value in keeping my reality spontaneous...less limited by past habits and mundane routines that keep us in that safe (but boring!) comfort zone.

By learning to become awareness itself...being the "watcher", I can see the gaps between thoughts happening more and more. In that stillness is peace...A tranquility that no material object or money could ever equal. 

This meditation commune has been the most beautiful gift. Living in a community full of peaceful beings (I mean seriously peaceful beings!) that share the same mission of consciousness and the desire to share that gift with the world has effected me greatly. Days filled with a variety of quiet meditation as well as sessions full of dancing, shaking,  humming, jumping, "cathartic noise making" and a variety of other powerful transformational activities...

.....Dancing every night to joyful beautiful music with a room full of people so happy to be there celebrating together...smiling faces as big as the moon...the air filled with incense that takes you instantly back to an ancient civilization...the nightly Osho discourse filling your soul with love and understanding... And of course the yummy SPICY Nepalese vegetarian meals... I shall take this amazing gift everywhere I go and share it with as many souls as I can find. 

Thank you Thank you Thank you! I love my life! 

Meditation does not have to be the chore as many uninitiated people believe...contorting yourself into the Buddha-in-lotus position ...mentally torturing yourself by fruitlessly attempting to empty your mind.... Ok...there are a few moments of that in a week long vipassana...but I anyway....  At least I was sitting comfortably (my lotus needs a little work) and a couple of sessions I actually used a chair! Of course at first it felt like cheating (but its not!)...it is more important to be RELAXED. That is the key. Relax, be comfortable and just watch. Watch your breath at first. Then watch your body. Is there a pain or an itch? Try just watching it, as Osho would recommend. The itch disappears. The pain releases. (Ok, maybe not the pain from the lotus position..where was I...?) These are all simply distractions. ...Huh?...

Ahem...as I was saying...These are all distractions. See?

Watch your feelings. Watch your emotions. Be "the watcher on the hill" Osho would say.  This practice... this discipline some might call it, leads to the ultimate freedom. Peace. When you are at peace, you are free. 

Try it. I double dog dare you. It might just change your life as well. 

I am so happy and grateful I am always at deep peace. 

Trekking in the Himalayas...oh yeah, babeeee....

Oh Nepal, you are so wild and crazy!

Your mountains are amazing yet so shy! Monsoon season...with your endless clouds and shifting winds, hide your majestic beauty more times than not. And then, quite literally out of the blue, sparing a peek at your peaks!  Rivers, lakes, lush valleys, infinite stone pathways.. high and low...across the raging river on the creepiest bridge I've ever seen or felt beneath my feet!  ...And a crop of leeches, the likes of which these eyes have never seen. These little vampires searching for blood honestly tormented me a day or two (..or six)!  The paranoia with each step wondering if I was being drained of my life energy somewhere deep in my sock,  kept me on my toes for days. Continually scanning my shoes for these suckers ...menacingly inching up to find their oblivious host... Yikes! I missed one or two and found a blood drenched sock later in the night...

What interesting people I have met along the way...Japan, Malaysia, England, Spain, and Australia seem to be the homes of most the travelers I met. Nary a one from the good ol' U.S. of A.  I was an oddity in more ways than one, I am sure. We spent many evenings comparing leech bites and stories of the places seen along the way. Our guides gathered somewhere off in the kitchen comparing entertaining tales of the touristy-trekkers they effortlessly guided through their home turf. That's okay, laugh at me if you will...I made it back to Pokhara in one piece, much wiser for the journey...much less blood, but in good spirits physically and mentally. 

Thank you dear Rami for an amazing trek in the Himalayas. You are a wonderful guide and I shall never forget this magnificent journey. See you next time ready to tackle Mount Everest!!!...okay, at least the trek to the base camp!

And now for the long adventure back to Kathmandu... Ciao!

I am so happy and grateful I am pure Unconditional Love

Jhinu- Day Two

"Australian Camp" where we spent the last night of the trek