Pachamama ...

Lake Titicaca 

Today I climbed to Pachamama. The hardest part by far was making my way through the twisting and turning paths of the pueblo. You are basically snaking around everyone's homes and gardens but there are many turns and they all look the same. 

Needless to say, I was super proud of my navigational skills when I literally walked straight to town. From the Plaza, a stone path goes up and up and up through several stone "arcos" and eventually up to a point where you turn left to go to Pachatata or to the right to Pachamama. 

It took me about an hour to get up here and the early hour is totally worth it. I have the whole place to myself. From several viewpoints up here you cannot see any signs of mankind. On one side is the village and I see terraces for farming in several directions. But mostly I see miles and miles of the highest elevation lake in the world, uninhabited islands, and mountains. Mountains everywhere in the distance, 360 degrees. Some are in Peru, some belong to Bolivia. Some are roundish and smooth looking, many are jagged and pointy. Then, there are the Apus. The mountain spirits... The highest snow covered peaks are the Apus, and they are just as sacred and majestic as you would think them to be. 

This place is a vortex of energy. People have been coming up here for ceremony for eons. I see why. 

I can feel it. 

Lake Titicaca

Yesterday I took a bus to Puno, home to the highest lake in the world... Lake Titicaca. I spent the night in town and then took a small boat to several islands. The first island I visited is a floating island. They take the local reeds that grow in shallow water and tie them all together to form giant islands !  Seriously!  And lots of people live on these islands year round.  We got to see exactly how they made the islands and how they live.  It is absolutely astounding.

Then I got back on the boat and they dropped me off at Amantani island where this wonderfully sweet woman, Flora, was waiting for me. We walked to her house which was about a thirty or so minute walk up and down little paths, around rock walls, through garden plots, and neighboring villas. Me... With a giant backpack, a little backpack on the front, and a waist pack.  Why was my load so big and heavy, you ask? Because I was afraid there wouldn't be enough water...on an ISLAND...so I hauled almost 5 liters of water...bananas, oranges,  a kilo of sugar, and stupidly, a kilo of quinoa (I didn't know they grew it here! It was supposed to be a nice gift.)Hmmm. 

So what was for lunch? She made me delicious quinoa soup. She had actually grown the quinoa herself. Oh well. You can never have too much quinoa. 

My Spanish is improving and we can communicate fairly well. However, sometimes we have conversations that I have no idea what we are talking about. And the niños! I couldn't understand why I did not have a clue as to what they were saying but later learned that they mostly speak Quechua mixed with a little Spanish. That was a relief actually. I was thinking I just didn't speak child. 

In the afternoon, I rejoined a few of the other people that came over on the boat with me and we hiked up to Pachatata (The male energy ceremonial place at the top of one of the two mountains on the island.  The other is Pachamama...mother earth).  

I didn't realize how cold and windy it would be at the top. Luckily for me the pathway was filled with local women selling the hats, gloves, and sweaters they make with the local alpaca and wool. I broke down and bought a hat from the woman at the very top...she lugged all her wares alllllll the way up to the top of a very steep mountain!  And now I get to look cool just like the locals. 

Ahhhh...la comida de Peru!

Today, Barb and I decided to venture out on the town.  We walked all over the streets, the Plaza de Armas, and everywhere in between. We found ourselves outside of the touristy area when it was time for lunch.  We asked a local for a good recommendation and they pointed to a blue door. We went inside and the place was absolutely filled with people.  There was even a waiting list. We thought this was a good sign and Barb managed to get us on the list. 

Well. Boy, we were in for a local treat indeed. There was a show getting ready to start just as we sat down. Of course we didn't understand anything they were doing but that wasn't the main attraction anyway. 

The menu was by far the most interesting thing going on in there (see photo).  Of course by now, in Peru as a vegetarian I am in complete acceptance of the fact that my meal in a restaurant may be limited to the choice of papas fritas or maybe just papas... (French fries or boiled potatoes).  But this menu was mind boggling. I'm just happy they had one in English. There is no telling what I might have ended up with. Aaaahhhh... La comida en Peru es muy interesante!

"Ceremony of Sound"

I was honored to be a part of a "Ceremony of Sounds" in the Macchu Picchu pueblo one afternoon. A local shaman, Hebert Lira, performed a beautiful ceremony using every kind of instrument imaginable. Drums, rattles, bells, flutes, and the most powerful voice you have ever heard. 

It was a healing ceremony and each of us were blessed with Agua de Florida and a special blessing. I was sitting directly in front of Hebert and the sounds were so powerful and loud my entire body was vibrating. I am pretty sure I left the planet yet again!

After the ceremony it was time to board the train back to Ollyantaytambo.  On the train, we were entertained by Inka "clowns" (see photo). If you are one of those people with the very strange phobia of clowns, stay away from these. They are particularly creepy. 

IntiPunku

The second day in Macchu Picchu began with a hike to IntiPunku otherwise known as the sungate. This is essentially the last segment of the Inka trail and was only several miles long in one direction.  It is a beautifully maintained trail, paved with large stones and mostly 4 or 5 ' wide. 

About halfway up we stopped to listen to a local guide talk about a flower that was growing on the side of the trail. It was the most beautiful wild orchid I have ever seen.  

Then I saw her. A sweet American woman stopping to rest at the same place in the trail. I asked her where she was from and she said Tennessee, near Nashville. I laughed and told her I knew the area well, as I had gone to college and boarding school near there. As it turns out her son had attended the same (very small) boarding school as I had graduated from.  

He had been killed five years ago in a tragic car accident. She was traveling to Macchu Picchu with her son's friend because it was on his list of places he wanted to go.  I was so filled with grief and happiness for her all at the same time. I felt her deep sadness.  This trip for her was such a huge release as well as a renewal.  Anita, wherever you are, I applaud you and send you healing,  loving energy!